3.5 dwt total
The Swinging Sixties unleashed a remarkable period of creativity and innovation in gold jewelry. New-found post-war prosperity in Europe and the US and the attendant disposable income fueled the market for jewelry. Gold prices were relatively low and stable and supplies of 18K gold were ample.
The Sexual Revolution and New Wave Feminism upended fashion. Mini-skirts and bikinis reflected a more relaxed, less structured approach to dressing and life. These new fashions and lifestyles required new jewelry. Jewelers in England, France, Italy, Switzerland and the US exploited the sculptural and sensual possibilities of gold to create an entirely new jewelry art that could be worn at the beach, to work and for an elegant evening out.
American jewelry is represented by pieces by David Webb and Trianon Seaman Schepps. The Webb turquoise cocktail ring is the earliest piece in the show and the Trianon rock crystal earrings are one of the most recent. Trianon is a division of Seaman Schepps and these types of shell earrings are synonymous with this American firm.
The fabulous 18K French Brutalist necklace and bracelet set represent the best of this uniquely mid 60’s to 70’s style. Brutalism is generally associated with architecture - massive concrete buildings (usually institutional) – which are aggressively masculine. The Brutalist impulse in jewelry design is complex and exciting. Andrew Grima and Charles de Temple, who both worked in London, are probably the best-known Brutalist jewelers. These French pieces are remarkable for their craftmanship and their artistry.
Italy is known for its modern design, and gold jewelry is no exception. For centuries Italians have been celebrated for their artistry and luxury goods. Pomellato was founded in 1967. Italian Elsa Peretti moved to New York City in the 1970’s, partied with Andy Warhol and modeled for Halston before starting her career as a jewelry designer with an exclusive contract with Tiffany in 1974. Marco Bicego took over his family’s Vicenza firm in 2000. All three of these Italian makers share a strong design sensibility and a kind of sophisticated simplicity that make their wearable art pieces uniquely Italian.